'The Great Pumpkin'

Pumpkins at a Thanksgiving Market - Montreal

Pumpkins are funny old things.  In the USA, they are relegated to carving at Halloween, overly sweetened pie at Thanksgiving and for decoration on front porches throughout New England.  In the UK, the only time you ever see pumpkin is in insipid 'Butternut Squash' soup that always tastes like water or when someone such as Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall suggests you may dare try some as an addition to a warm salad.  Meanwhile in Australia, we cook it in just about as many ways are there are types of pumpkin.  Sweet, savoury, soups, stews and scones - you name it, we eat it.  Which is why it was such a surprise to see a recipe online in The Guardian for Butternut Squash & Tahini Spread.  Oh, I should have known, it's my old friend Yotam Ottolenghi.  St Otto (as I saw someone call him in a recent online book review) is trying to change a nation's tastes, one dip at a time.

This recipe is so quick and simple to make, you'll want to have it as a standby for dips, sandwich fillings and as a sauce for all manner of grilled meats.  As always, you will find my ideas and tips at the bottom.  Yotam has some funny ideas about the cooking time for pumpkin so I have made a major alteration to the suggested time.

Pumpkin (Squash) & Tahini Spread

• 1kg of pumpkin peeled and cut into chunks
• 3 tbsp olive oil
• 1 tsp cinnamon
• 1/2 tsp salt
• 70g tahini paste
• 120g natural or Greek yoghurt
• 2 small garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
• 1 tsp mixed black & white sesame seeds
• 2tsp chopped coriander
• 2tsp chopped spring onions
• 1 tbsp pomegranate /molasses paste (see notes)

Method

1. Place pumpkin in a freezer bag, adding oil and toss to coat
2. Spread pumpkin on a baking tray and sprinkle with cinnamon and salt.  Cover with foil
3. Place in to preheated oven at 180c for 40 - 45 mins until soft.  Remove and allow to cool
4. Transfer cooled pumpkin to a bowl and mash gently with a potato masher or fork.  You want a coarsely mashed paste, not a smooth pulp
5. Mix through tahini and yoghurt
6. To serve - spread the mix on a plate, dragging a fork through to make a wavy pattern.  Drizzle pomegranate paste or molasses over and then scatter with coriander, spring onions and sesame seeds
7. All done! Enjoy with home made pita or Naan or warm Turkish bread.

Notes
- I'm not a fan of the suggested butternut  pumpkin so I used Kent (Jap) but with so many choices on offer, I think any would be fine. The flavour will differ, depending on your pumpkin choice.
- Next time I'm going to sprinkle on cumin as well as cinnamon to give it a real Middle Eastern flavour profile
- Yotam, are you crazy?  70 minutes suggested cooking time for pumpkin?  That's just way too long.  Maybe the squash in the UK are tough but 40 - 45 minutes should be plenty of time for Aussie pumpkins.  I think the foil is optional too.

Finally, let's talk about Pomegranate Molasses.  It's a mythical beast that I have been in search of ever since Nigella mentioned it as an accompaniment for her Warm Shredded Lamb Salad, which many of you have enjoyed at my parties. No one seemed to sell it so I was starting to think that maybe the word 'molasses' was a loose interpretation.  In fact, Herbie's do sell it but I only recently discovered this and thought it was a bit extravagant to mail order one tiny bottle.  In the past I had a bottle of Pomegranate Syrup but was not particularly happy with the flavour.  Recently I picked up a small bottle of Pomegranate Paste for $5.99 at a Middle Eastern grocer.  It's misnamed as it's not a paste but a syrup.  Yotam actually suggests you use date syrup as a natural sweetener on top of the pumpkin spread which again indicates to me that the squash in the UK aren't as sweet or tasty as the pumpkins here.  I'm sure it's just as difficult to source anyway (and he suggests if you can't get it, not to worry) so I thought 'why not give the Pomegranate Paste a go?'.  Well I did and it's bloody delicious! Sweet, tart and tangy, it really perks up the dish and tastebuds.  I'm so keen on it, I'm going to try it with soda water and see if it might make a nice summer refresher or a base for a cocktail.

Of course the other thing we know about Pumpkins is that every Halloween, The 'Great Pumpkin' rises out of the pumpkin patch that is deemed 'most sincere' before flying through the air to deliver toys (and Pomegranate Molasses) to all the good little children of the world.

A Few of My Favourite Things - Update!

And the good time just keep rolling.  Hot on the heels of the great news that Soreen is now available in Australia comes the fab news that Ryvita has started selling a number of flavours here.  I came to know and love in the UK.  Like most family businesses, Ryvita has been swallowed up by a multinational but interestingly, the biscuits are still made in the UK and imported into Australia. 

Trawling the shelves of a Canberra supermarket, I gave a small squeak of delight when I saw these Fruit & Seed Crunch.  In the UK they are marketed as a low fat alternative to sweet biscuits and the serving suggestion is that they are dunked into a cup of tea.  Here, things are a little more sensible and the suggestion is simply to enjoy them as a snack on the go.  For me though, the combo of raisins, a hit of honey and pumpkin seeds is fantastic with a sharp cheddar.

Another favourite from my travels, 'Pumpkin Seed & Oat' is also available in Australia. I was never in the Ryvita camp as a kid.  We were strictly a Premium and Vita-Weat family but I can report that as an adult, I am happy to give Ryvita the support it was sadly lacking in my early years.  Honestly, these could have been available here for years but to me, it's a great re-discovery.

A Treat for the Frequent Flyer

The other day I was poking around Koko Black in Canberra, wishing we had one in Brisbane when I saw these little treats.  The thing that caught my eye was the label - 'For Frequent Flyers'.  I thought, 'What's this? They've recognised my fellow zombies, trapped in a twilight zone of overpriced airport shops, shuttling between capital cities in a sardine tin and constantly doing mental somersaults over daylight saving calculations.' Yes. No. Maybe.

In a canny piece of marketing, the tag on these pieces of chocolate coated, candied orange peel reads: Sandpiper - Marathon Frequent Flyer; Humble Adventurist; Nibble Feeder. So apparently Sandpipers shuttle back and forth between capital cities too. Rarely sucked in by the hyperbole, I had to buy them immediately.

Perhaps they're meant to be daintily nibbled on a plane but these will be going on the after dinner cheese plate at my next dinner party.  I may serve it with Thorn Clarke Sandpiper from the Barossa.

Lunch Sized Adventures - Little Saigon Grill

One of the things that I missed most when we were travelling in Europe were Asian flavours.  After only 2 months in Birmingham, I was so desperate that we hunted out the very small Chinatown for some smoky Char Kway Teow and Salt & Pepper Calamari.  In Berlin, we had 3 separate meals at the same Vietnamese restaurant and in Switzerland, I paid an absolute fortune for a few small chillis and some coriander.  I knew Asian flavours were part of every day life in Australia but I never knew how ingrained they had become.  That Phở in Berlin was like mother's milk.

I'm still topping up on those flavours so was delighted to discover Little Saigon Grill in Rowes Arcade in the City.  The menu board bore little resemblance to the food on offer but everything in the bain marie looked scrumptious including Lemongrass Pork and Beef.  In the cold section there were the biggest cold rolls I have ever seen in various flavours (chicken, prawn etc) and the traditional Vietnamese salads, made to order by the brigade of staff (more than 8), all busily preparing and serving.

But for me, I was curious to know what people were queuing for and then transporting away in paper bags.  I asked, 'What are those bread rolls?'. The answer was unintelligible (to me at least) but I knew they were good as there was a crowd.  I ordered one and waited.  As it was prepared before me, I realised it was Bánh mì, a popular street food in Saigon and elsewhere in Vietnam.  The roll was large, crusty and super fresh.  The filling was crisp and flavoursome with cucumber, carrot, noodles and lot of coriander.

The first few time I had a roll, it included a pastrami style meat, the most recent visit was a deli pork loaf.  Of course, it really should be s smear of French inspired Pate' and some pork belly but hey, they gotta make a profit somehow.  The roll is finished with a sweet, tangy dressing.  I always order chilli sauce so was surprised on my most recent visit to have no chilli sauce but giant pieces of scorchingly hot chilli that I had to remove.  They still packed quite a punch on the bits of salad they had touched.  So, it would seem that consistency may be a bit of an issue but only as far as general make up of the roll, not in terms of quality.  For $5.90, your not going to get a fresher or more palate pleasing lunch in the CBD.

I keep saying I'm going to try the the Lemongrass Pork in a roll, as I have seen others ordering but as yet, I have not been able to give up my love affair with the Bánh mì.

Little Saigon Grill
Rowes Arcade Food Court
235 Edward St (or enter from Adelaide St)
Brisbane  Qld  4000

Charles Melton Dinner @ e'cco

To blog, or not to blog?  That is the question.  I wasn't going to blog about this dinner because it's not really a review of a restaurant or the wine is it?  On the other hand, all my friends were there and we had a great time so I thought it would be nice for them to skip down (a hazy) memory lane.

The starting line

We are all firm fans of Charles Melton and spend copious amounts of money at his cellar door when we visit the Barossa Vintage Festival, every two years.  Not content to get mega bucks from us at Easter this year, Charlie put on a wine dinner at e'cco a few weeks back and we just couldn't say no.

The meal was degustation style, showing off dishes from various aspects of the menu.  Before the mains, there were pre-dinner drinks with some delightful nibbles including Tempura Oysters with Nahm Jim.  I like shellfish and even enjoy mussels, something many people don't eat but I am no fan of oysters in any of their guises.  These oysters though were very moreish, hot and crispy with a sharp dressing.  I'm guessing that the next time I am offered an oyster, it will probably not be as good but I enjoyed the treat none the less.

Tempura Oyster

We were seated and a series of dishes and copious amounts of wine were delivered to the table.  The Corn Fed Chicken was good but didn't dazzle. I liked the Harissa Sauce but others found it too overpowering and intense (though not too hot). I was surprised by the generous size of the dishes - Not quite full size?  Maybe 3/4 size?  Definitely not tiny degustation morsels.  This meant that by dish number two, the Tonka Bean Spiced Pork, I was already limiting myself to just the meat component.  You'd think we'd be over Pork Belly by now, but it appears we aren't.  So as long as it's tender with crunchy crackling, we are happy to keep enjoying it and restauranteurs are happy to claw back some money on cheap cuts to make up for the more expensive ingredients, such as the next dish.

When the Red-Wine Braised Wagyu Beef Cheeks arrived, I was quite full.  Those Beef Cheeks were very good though.  I cook with them a lot and know that slow braising works a treat but these were amazingly tender, able to be flaked with just the merest touch of a fork.  The Fresh Horseradish that accompanied them was a treat.

By the time the Sour Cherry Tea Cake arrived, I was almost defeated and I thought the cake a little dry.  A sentiment echoed by one of my friends.  This didn't stop anyone finishing their fifth course and then moving on to the petit four.  It's been absolutely years since I have been to e'cco and I can tell you that Philip Johnson is still turning out high quality food.  It was particularly pleasing to see him cooking and at the pass on the night. I think though, the competition has become a little more fierce in the last few years as Brisbane jostles for foodie status.  None the less, it's still in Gourmet Traveller's Top 100 Restaurants and one of only 9 from Queensland. (How in the world did Absynthe get onto that list???)  No mean achievement to geton the list when you consider the number of fine dining restaurants in Brisbane alone.  It's worth a visit. Service too is top notch.

Charlie holding court

As you would imagine, the wines of this occasion were absolutely superior and matched to the meal.  I'm not a fan of the sparkling, but as Charles made excuses for in his speech, it's a frivolous tipple and not to be taken seriously.  The 2009 Richelieu Grenache was excellent and the 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon also stood apart from the Shirazs.  Have no fear Charlie, we'll be back at the cellar door in 2013.

Charles Melton Dinner

canapes

parmesan biscuits w prosciutto, rocket & fetta

tempura oysters w nahm jim

2011 rose of virginia rose'

course two

corn-fed chicken breast, organic new potatoes,

swiss chard, harissa & candied pepitas

2009 nine popes gsm

2009 richelieu grenache

course three

tonka bean spiced pork belly, maple glazed pear,

parsnip & pomegranate jus

2009 the kirche shiraz

2009 cabernet sauvignon

course four

red-wine brasied wagyu beef cheeks, sweet potato puree',

asparagus, hazelnuts & fresh horseradish

2009 voices of angels shiraz

2009 grains of paradise shiraz

course five

sour cherry tea cake, mandarin creme patissiere,

poached mandarins and tea ganache

nv sotto di ferro

coffee & petit fours

e'cco
100 Boundary St
(cnr Adelaide St)
Brisbane Qld  4000
http://www.eccobistro.com/contact.html

Visited: Monday 26th September 2011 - Dinner Service 

Never Under Estimate an Op Shop!

Time for an Op Shop update.  So many great goodies out there and so little space to fit it in my cupboards.

To start with, these cute espresso cups. Originally a set of 8, sadly there were only 4 pairs plus the leftover saucers, that stayed behind.  With a hint of 70's and a whiff of Mediterranean, these little cups are unlikely to see any coffee action at my place, due to the key component of an espresso machine being absent.  Future use for an Amuse Bouche or mini mousse, perhaps. $2 for the 4

From an era when it was fine to have a dozen drinks at your friend's cocktail party and then drive home, I present to you, the ultimate party platter.  I have a few of these in my collection but none with such cheery decoration or the real selling point for me, indentations for the devilled eggs.  Crack open the Vermouth, it's time to party!  $5

Speaking of cocktails, how about Shirley Flight Air Hostess in 'Storm Warning'?  Poor old Shirley, dropping that cocktail tray into the laps of her passengers.  The Shirley Flight series was written by Judith Dale but you may know her better as Edward Reginald Home-Gall. Lucky Shirley works for Transcontinental Air Lines (it says so on the back), so she'll have a job for life.  50c

 

What's this you ask? It's a thingie that you use to rub butter into flour when you are making pastry so you don't overwork the flour (nothing worse than a tough scone).  It's actually called a Pastry Blender and nowadays you can just use the pulse action on your food processor.  Still, it's got a great 1950's feel to it and quite an ergonomic design for it's day with a little thumb rest as one end of the handle, to allow extra pressure to cut through the butter.  I know you can do without one but I love it!  50c

Lunch Sized Adventures - Taro's Ramen & Cafe

I've decided to start a new 'theme' of post, based on TIFFIN'S lunch time adventures.  Here's the first one.

I spend most of my lunch breaks sitting at my desk, working my way through an endless pile of emails and something I've brought from home.  Occasionally though, I get to throw off the shackles and one such opportunity presented itself when I caught up with my friend and committed TIFFIN reader and commenter, Shannan.

We hiked up to the no man's land between the city and valley to Taro's Ramen & Cafe, at the base of a nondescript government building.  The shop itself is taken up by the counter and kitchen so you eat outside on the veranda or in the little courtyard beside.  Ramen is a Japanese dish that basically comprises a variety of broth bases, additional meat and vege toppings and the all important noodles. There's a big choice on the menu and whilst they all sound pretty much the same, they look completely different when they arrive.  It's like a lunch lucky dip for under $15.

I opted the for Shio Ramen, a miso based broth and Shannan, the Fire Tonkatsu Ramen in a pork based broth. The Ramen is freshly prepared and delivered to your table in steaming bowls with little accompaniments such as chilli, spring onions and sesame seeds. It's more than enough for a large lunch and there is something deliciously satisfying about the broth.  Oh hang on, I know what it is - Umami.  Mmmm Umami.....  Both of us enjoyed our Ramen although we also thought it a little salty but not enough to put us off finishing our lunch.

There's a range of sides available at lunch such as Endamame or Karage Chicken as well as some wacky cafe options including a crumbed fish sandwich and even a Chiko Roll (still made in Australia apparently - sign up for their newsletter).  So if you go with a fussy friend, there will be something for them too.

Taro's Ramen & Cafe
363 Adelaide St
Brisbane  Qld  4000
http://www.taros.com.au/

Visited: Friday 24th September 2011 - Lunch Service